There has been a lot of actions recently on Tioman… As we are now entering the monsoon, these were probably the last big climbs for this year. The dragon and its neighborhood have seen some new routes and some first ascents. Along with Tam, Tim Hot Tea , Nicolas Archibald Gay and Shaiful Amin have been opening the following:

  • The green line: 200m, 6a on the Nipah Slab. Careful, the route is being described as dangerous  with some long runout on sketchy and scary footholds. The topo suggests that it has not been bolted and that there is no abseil line.

The green Line on Nipah Slabs - Tioman Island Rock Climbing

 

  • All along the watchtower: 300m, 6a+, TD- in a new sector called “Bagus Tower”. Not really sure where this section stands comparatively to the Dragon’s Horns. Will have to ask more details about it to Tam. The route is not bolted, it is all trad and the topo suggests that the abseils are complicated. Caution is advised. Read the trip report here.

Tioman Rock Climbing - All Along the Watchtower - Bagus Tower

  • The wind of  change: 100m, 6a route on “Bagus Tower”. This is trad, not bolts for abseil. Read the trip report here.

Tioman Rock Climbing - The Wind of Change - Puncak Anak - Bagus Tower

  • Freebird: 230m, TD, 6a, grade IV on The Dragon Horns, next to Polish Princess (I guess more on the right side). The route has not been been bolted, it is trad, threads and nuts have been used for anchors. Read the trip report here.

Thanks Nicolas for having taken the time to write some new and nice topos on the climbing book. Follow Tam on his facebook for the latest and freshest news. Please share with us your trip reports and memories from Tioman.

Cheers and climb safe !

The Dragon’s Horns on Tioman Island, Malaysia, Part11: new routes, FAs and last news
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