Tam recently reported that a new route on the Dragon’s horns has been opened by an Iranian team on April 2015. “The name of God” – “Ironin 3″ (a.k.a. Iranian three) – is an addition to the south pillar, on the right side of Waking Dream. It is 485m long with an unconfirmed grade of 5.13 / 5.10 A2. Tam will soon publish the story behind this ascent. The team was composed of Mahmoud Ghavidel, Ali Rostami, Hamid Reza Hasherri, Hossan Ateffi, Nima Parsa and Nass Rolah Taheri. Good job guys !!!!

In the meantime, since my Persan skills in are not really up to date, I used google translator to preserve the Iranian Trip Report. We would be really grateful if someone could help us to translate the TR in proper English.

Also, future teams, please, don’t hesitate to send us your trip reports, first ascents and projects on Tioman.

All rock climbing topo for the Dragon’s Horns on Tioman are here.

Topo - Route Description - In the Name of God - Ironin 3 - Dragon Horn - Tioman -Rock Climbing

Topo - Route Description - In the Name of God - Ironin 3 - Dragon Horn - Tioman -Rock Climbing 3

From the Website Mountains for peace

According to climb and opening the way Iranians – Malaysia

Tioman Island Village Mukut

485-meter-long dragon horn wall

Director: Mahmoud Ghavidel Birjandi (add your comment)
Technical Director: Ali Rostami (Nishapur)
Photography: Nima Parsa 
Syed Hamid Hashemi, A SH (Yasouj)
Nasrallah Taheri (Yasouj) Melkan but born (Shirvan)

The name of God 5.13 / 5.10 A2 (???) 485 m

Original Text is here

Malaysia’s Report


Malaysia is the largest island in the southeast of the country, there are several high wall known in the world. In between these two rock walls, which together are known as the Horn of Dragon Rock The latitude and longitude of N2 / 71919 E140 / 17399 there.
The vertical cliffs known in the world, seems to have drawn a great climbers so far seven teams from around the world with great effort managed to top the walls are .kh Iran is among those countries. The countries of Iran, France, Czech, America, China, Malaysia, Poland is. In 2014 our team was going to run this program because some of the problems could accomplish its program on the walls of the dragon horn and finally we left for Armenia, which was the opening of two routes. Having achieved success because of the many problems the team will again dogma and Malaysia way back we decided to create a new role and other honors. The recognition of the walls in early 2014 by Ali Rostami was Ghavidel Mahmoud, who established contact with Mr. Arthur and Ms. Stephanie and Mr. Haja every day we gain more knowledge. Until the first months of 2015 the program was finalized. Camps and Conferences team members had previous run of the festival twenty pillars, climb Akhlmd Khorasan, of the mountains and were selected and coordinated. All team members are not only professional climbers .hzvr every point Khly fill the job of a heavy shower of relief.
Four members of the team that participated in the camps due to financial problems could accompany the team on the rise. But given the absence of information and Pshtvany the backbone of Iran’s team were thanked by our religion.
All team members had gathered at the home of a friend who came Tjmman base and technical equipment that have already been identified and were presented by members collected and Czech approved the final list were its own packing items. Once packed, and we were prepared Yhtaj necessary.
At 9:45 am in the Islamic Republic of Iran Mountaineering Federation were gathered, conversations in the Federation by the Federation President Mr. Zare climbing and sport climbing salt added at the heart of this team, which caused them to be more consistent. Mr. Zare and his sweet words Pshtvany and their contacts during the day we will be more promising. And it indicates that Iran Mountaineering Federation of the strong and consistent support to the peace of mind to be more inviting.
The meeting heard Mr agricultural never told friends and thanks to good luck with the move After the meeting with Mr. Zarei was taken a few shots at the Federation of Mountaineering Federation to the site of the team’s report was. The match went back into the house and take a van to the airport took 20 hours to deliver his load into the gate and ready to fly our Czech documents.The technical parts in 12 bags weighing 360 kg and 9 times as large as small backpack with Members were entered into the aircraft. Our country at 55/21 we left.
The morning after 8 hours of rest in the plane at 25/9 in the morning we arrived. It should be noted that a certain Mr. Grant Meyer and his wife on 25 Persian date Esfand 93 Gramyshan over a thirty-day visit to the region had been identified. More complete information that thereby we thank them for this support. Upon receipt of the load and the Czech Mdarkman by a van at the bus terminal Ayaltyshan Mrsyng we went to a city and port. Who managed to get tickets to the move Time 12:30 Mrsyng destination (states of Pahang) hour after we arrived by bus at 19 to Mrsyng. Because of the boat to the island Tyvman were forced to bivouac in the area. Night to buy food and other needs, and the rest spent at the hotel.
Out of the hotel at 5 am we went to tickets boat docks that we managed to get tickets for the 10:30. After breakfast we were in the way. After a 2 hour boat ride to the island we Jntyng Tyvman waterfront village. Boat station, and passengers evacuated all the villages and islands to mountains and rainforests to land, lack of communication and movement of boats were used only for the 13:30 in Port got he Tom was waiting with a boat. The meeting had already coordinated. He FAQ region and skilled climber who knew all the forest paths and routes that Qblagshaysh was being climbed. After a while we Mvkvt Bank village that was our area. That GPS position n2 / 71919 and E140 / 17399 After a little pause and talk to us and they were rejected and Badr. Access routes open and they showed us. Aqamtyman led us to the area. Regional ten small room made of wood with a distance of 2 meters from each other respectively, and for the three rooms, three were considered and a storage room the whole outfit in it had set up the Pensions at a distance of 10 meters from the sea the landscape aesthetically pleasing for us that was created. After a swim and dinner and prepare our equipment and head all the usual late night get together to fully identify the direction of interest and the views of the team would the decision on the early morning of our equipment and the base wall (base camp) and helps to identify .lazm The director was very precise and Hvassh was the smallest team on the night went to the wall just to the side of the sea were stunning.
Waking up at 5 am and after breakfast we left at 6 am Boarding Mvkvt. It was very heavy burden. It is not an exaggeration to say that we in the transfer of 50 kg. Heavy load caused the team we had to rest frequently. 1:40 minutes after the march reached the base camp. After a little rest, the team was divided into two camps and establishing a working team and the other teams are picking Barman was identified. Forest with huge trees and many plants were identified kilometers from the way we’ve found to a point where we can see part of the road did not see the full path to the beach. Since we returned to see the well. Far, and only one place we could see the wall. Kids camp after the establishment of the separation of their parts, everything was ready to do the job, but we were able to choose our own ways. The problem was that the places where the common path of our choice and it was hearty and Ali and Mahmoud were not the outcome of the negotiations so that we are tired, we wanted the right to love, climbing and the opening of the complete for us, and this led the day to not get a final decision. After much effort, we camp together after dinner and discourse that we are going to sleep, insects because it was not possible.
Day is repeated with the difference that we ‘capture insect bites. Forest insects and strident falsetto voice that other causes were not Sbanytman. Our clothes wet from moisture and heat tolerance was not hard work. Were known plants and other clothing and did not scratch my skin had no problem in water supply. Forest paths quite well and we were taught. The fountain was away but not unknown. Afternoon with Tom, the way that Shnasayh was beginning to find that it is here to thank them for all Zhmatshan.
We began our work at 6 am the next day inside a narrow gap filled with small bushes and long that it’s hard the first time with the 8 middle of three plants and a successful Mnqarh tops route to length of 42 meters and then we moved up to the top rope by four people to be ready for the fixed rope. And then came the opening of 20 meters to a platform with a few tools and drills Vbrqrary workshops runner-up workshop to come up with a stronger belt and continue our path until after the insertion of a shaft, a pin a shaft 3 and 2 with a Friend of the Flamenco one plant could 40 m more open and eventually using a bough workshop was created and the people backed up out of your path with ropes together has not fixed the other two members also bring the food to the workshop 2 and 4 to the top ring rope also be transferred. We continue the path between the trees. With a little luck along the way was the beginning of our rope. And a belt with two knots and a tree 20 meters high was also open. 19 working hours got one of the team members went down to tomorrow with food and water and more rope you up with other forces of the night was cold and very wet night we had a little rain we had a break after.
Work began at 4 am. Chmpman on the French route of the belt with a distance of 70 cm from each other the way we saw the show. Trman a piece of old rope 20 meters up on the right side appear to represent the French route. Our way with a belt at a height of 3 meters from the 2 Friend continued, but the gap is much narrower and shallower interest that could be Fela even Myngv in the contract. And the number of votes it’s not enough Kvprhdhayman large cap Iranians decided to tattoo belt and belt size 10 was all that much effort has to be tried to the last step, step our Rkabman the number of the belt At least we managed to open 11 to 48 meters with the number 34 finished with the establishment of a shop chain belt and a belt loop at a distance of one meter workshop set up for a static rope to picking Lvazmman later with the fixed and a Dynamic rope was ready to back up the way for other members of the group. Water supplies and got them up again the next time shortly after eating snacks and drinking began. 2 middle Friend natural and shrubs and a size 4, a belt, a stone Mnqarh, and Friend sizes 3 and 6 tools in the next 35 meters left to go to work full time and we are ready to support. The runner-up is due to friction and again we decided to shop chains fixed routine, we continue to draw high. The weather was very hot all our clothes were wet and muddy path that was even plant a small wound on the body of the ants always our kids souvenir of their attention to was that sometimes the gas God’s blessings always be accompanied by an adult. Severe tropical rain twice stuffing them. The workshop is a narrow niche in the small cap with a few trees that shade the appropriate and a good place to stay for the night was provided. Summary 4 pm, and the team was ready to work to continue our path with a slope of 80 degrees with no gaps in the length of 20 meters to go to the second cap 20 the edge of the belt Snouted narrow smooth’ve a negative slope to harder work, but this approach attempts to rope a lot of guys in the team successfully completed 10 pm to 30 meters after the opening of the workshop in a niche to dip until the pay bivouac. Pshtvany same as before children were brought to the camp and dinner and water and were transferred to the top rope and three other women in the camp a four night stay in the camp two nights were very hot day and We spent boring.
2 members 3 am wake up and start working with Yo Mar 30 meters down the path and continue to fail to open at 9 am and 40 meters at this time until were prepared workshops chain his second delivery and transport Workshop 2 fixed ropes were no longer available. Fixed ropes and two others began to gather again and Yvmar the team with the first of a two-way deal were not suitable because of the low visibility of the workshop was that when we got our way choose. And team manager insisting that the left is starting to open up and we were left with a rope belt and pass through the cross and put the 2 x 3 Friend of 40 meters would the fast-moving in front of the was the same time, going to After the workshop was the first person to second person was also supported by another route so that two people with a little distance, with the support of what is continued to. Before this method was first used in Inscription fixed rope to people then he will be very exciting because you felt near the summit. Using shrubs have done during the middle path was easier to open, and then continue 45 meters to reach the forest and the forest over the next 45 to 35 meters to conquer the peak was sick. 9-person team effort indescribable joy after so many efforts and tireless day high was reached in the peak remained standing a few steps to climb no one else was all waiting to others Rqbty high over space filled the silence, perhaps a few minutes passed and one of the members to be down to the camp was agreed that all together, and then put on the stand over the top of the tricolor flag of our beautiful After the shaking stops hug and congratulations to capture, sort parts, put paid to the children of Camp 1 was when the last one was leaving the camp down to the camp’s and they continued. It was also established that the two were brought to the camp, but the top two reasons they are not more valuable in your heart to be not continue the way. They are not coming to the summit has not reduced the speed. It is the religion by all team members with their past, their efforts, patience and take Baryshan, Zhmatshan thank us ashamed to raise the flags Vsat 45/12 afternoon with Mqdsman and gather our supplies down We were a team that was in Camp 2 had gathered all the supplies were transferred to the camp and came down to pick us up to add accessories as down to the bottom of a collection. we went all the fixed rope The workshop gathered a rope to lower themselves to take all tired but not one of the sweet moments of harmony, cooperation, happiness is so no longer a place fill the fatigue. 7 night hours after the collection of appliances and their cords out of the wall down. Base camp together and to say congratulations. It was a good night, too tired to figure who does not dream. All parts are assembled and ready for lowering. Slept there overnight.
Morning all parts down together and we had very heavy burden for us but it did not matter after 2:30 walk to our accommodation in the village got Mvkvt. Mr. Tam was a guest was surprised to see me .ry the lowest when the team was able to open a path. He congratulated us and had prepared a cake that we welcomed. After bathing, swimming and separate day into the night for others. Night we went to a restaurant near the village and the celebration was brief provided that the head was retaliation wall hard. Several people from France, Britain and China in the restaurant is also a great honor for us to greet them.
The next day, at 10 Mvkvt to the port of Port Mrsyng Jntyng and then we left and took a bus to midnight the next day at 4 am to Kvalalanpvr others.
With the hotel resting, 4 members went to the embassy and other members of the transition was to buy and pay. At 4 pm we went to the club and they met Mr. Mahdi Parsafar and we see his club and also visited several attempts hereby thank Mr. Parsafar for their relentless efforts we have such a beauty in the movement Malaysia had done.
2000 meters of climbing space to build the greatest room in the world that they were able to build the world’s largest Boulder construction of the club continues.
The next day at 1:30 minutes Kvalalanpvr time we left the country and arrived at the Imam Khomeini airport in Tehran at 18:30 local time with our family and friends Excellency Professor Said received several decorations and party and pour in Tehran Mr. Mohammed Ibrahim from Tabriz and Mr Ali Farah saving of Nishapur faced. We also thank the friends.
Head of the entries:
Yes, we were not hallucinations writing these memoirs is on the team know Vayngvnh
Shahla .A: (mother), the mother with the feeling that a lot of stress when I came to him and he took refuge with her, hope and consolation to me that the good days and the Horn of Dragon project
Melkan but born (exact and sensitive) if work was entrusted to him by John Weddell did not protest with laughter and seriousness of their responsibility to complete all the best.
Leila follow (backing) be all things to all under the method endorsed the all helped to do their work well Hmnvrdansh work less and to work more easily be added to Hmnvrdansh
Nasrallah Taheri (Haji) to guide his team always reminded of God’s call said to the team and we found super powers.
Nima Parsa: (silence) Her silence and her eyes spoke to me I could not understand what he says, and his eyes were warned and encouraged me yes I know Nima
Hussein emotional race (effort) Sometimes Hussein saw the hard work that I was embarrassed and I remember the best photos with simple camera was Salafists
Syed Hamid Hashemi (mighty) Syed Hamid was strong and full of wisdom without the slightest error and help me with laughter, and always thought that the rise and success
Ali Rostami (Target): A. Because I wanted to clear our goal is clear and we are born with the knowledge that in the rural village of Ali activities we have found for myself activity Yes, we presume we’re not out of pocket We costs rise we paid.
At the end of all the elders want to do little to Bzrgyshan forgiven in the hope of opening another Hmtnabm Ali Rostami.

All of Iran’s rising cost of 8 million USD per person cost consumer devices.

Report: .A Shahla Ali Rostami
village Mvkvt N2 / 71919 E140 / 17399
Byskmp n2 / 72 478 E104 / 16729
Camp 1 N2 / 72/538 E104 / 16689
Mount N2 / 72543 E104 / 16640
Help Mohammad Khairuddin of Hijab who are converting to clean Hytam is
the second guide Shmshvdyn Khshnm converting to Anksm Tyvman village on the island live Makvt

Equipment for individual team
24 1 cord reel 50 meters 1. Harness
2 Friend a set of 8, 2 Klakaskt
3 balloon a set of 5 pieces 3 Instrument Landing two ropes
4 Mvnvnat a set of 6 pieces 4 Yvmar a coupling
shaft 5. A set of 7 pieces carbine bolt 5 6
6 6 Traykm a set 5 each pedal foot a number
7. 7. 30 Quick Dry Caribbean simple one
carbine bolt 8 25 8 backup tool 1
9 9 2 support 2 hammer
handle 10. Two rolls 10 and 6 Prvsyk 7 Mill Mill 3
11 drill 1 to 3 batteries, 1 charger, Quick Dry 1 x 11 40 cm
12 Bolt (10) 250 195 number was 12. Back Hdlamp 1
7 13 13 workshop chains voiceless 1 x
120 cm strap 14 4
15 60 cm 4 strap
traction 16 1
1 17 mini Trkshn number
18 Tnabchh 6 meters desire 5 7
19 split screen one
cache Kiel 20 3
21 3 Hook
Sky Hook 22 2
23 2 Flamingo peg
24 Talvn 2 x
25 liter bags 40 times 2
full Tlyj 26 1
2 27 First Aid Wall


The Dragon’s Horns on Tioman Island, Malaysia, Part7: new route addition – The Name of God – Ironin 3 – April 2015
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3 thoughts on “The Dragon’s Horns on Tioman Island, Malaysia, Part7: new route addition – The Name of God – Ironin 3 – April 2015

  • May 1, 2022 at 11:16 pm

    Hi Stephane and David,
    I’m collating the information about climbing on Tioman with a view to publishing an update on the state of climbing there. I was speaking to Tam about the Iranian route and it would appear that the description page in his book has been removed. Your article on the route provided a rather poor translation of the trip report. I have access to a native Farsi speaker here in KL, who will make a better translation.
    Do you still have the original text either in paper of digital form? If so could you send me a copy.
    Many thanks

    • May 3, 2022 at 5:08 pm

      Hi Gordon,

      I have to check but I think I don’t have the original document anymore…. Le met see


      • May 30, 2022 at 3:11 pm

        Hi Stephane,
        Progress with the new guide to Tioman is good but trying to find out more about the Iranian route. I’ve got a translation of the legend and a good link to the video they shot through an acquaintance here in KL. Have you found the original file so I can use the text in the guide (original reports are always good!). I can be reached more easily on gplscott@gmail.com. Thanks and regards Gordon


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