Legal disclaimer: We have no professional qualifications in inspecting or installing bolts. We are not material engineers – we only have our personal experience. This information is no guarantee of the integrity of the bolts, and is intended only to inform future climbers of the materials used. Climbers are advised to inspect all bolts before use, and to use at their own discretion. When in doubt, avoid the bolt and use your own equipment. All bolts used at climbers’ own risk.
********* RECAP SO FAR *********
- Waking Dream = Anchors fully rebolted with Titanium
- Damai Sentosa = Anchors fully rebolted with Titanium
- Polish Princess = Anchors fully rebolted with Titanium until end of Pitch 5
During our repeat of Waking Dream, we started to replace all the corroded anchors with Titanium bolts. You can read more on the bolt status for Waking Dream, the material used and the rational for using Titanium.
Just an update as of July 2015. Anchors on Damai Sentosa have been fully rebolted and anchors on Polish Princess have been rebolted up to the end of Pitch 5. We used a new generation of 14mm Titanium bolts, the first to be certified.
We also used the 10mm SS 316 Twisted Leg Bolt
All our additions were glue-ins with Hilti RE-500 (which is identifiable by its red colour). Glue samples were taken regularly, and all had tangibly hardened within 24 hours.
These are the modifications done to Damai Sentosa and Polish Princess:
Damai Sentosa Bolting Weekend in April 2015
Polish Princess Bolting Weekend in July 2015
Note that on Polish Princess, the original Kailas Bolts were still in a “good” shape and did not show any external signs of corrosion (as of July 2015). We abseiled using these bolts with a backup on the new Titanium bolts (orange tape on the route).
Batu Naga update as of March 2015
The route opened by Cedar Wright and Lucho Rivera now shows a lot of corrosion. This line needs to be bolted with Titanium…