Legal disclaimer: We have no professional qualifications in inspecting or installing bolts. We are not material engineers – we only have our personal experience. This information is no guarantee of the integrity of the bolts, and is intended only to inform future climbers of the materials used. Climbers are advised to inspect all bolts before use, and to use at their own discretion. When in doubt, avoid the bolt and use your own equipment. All bolts used at climbers’ own risk.

********* RECAP SO FAR *********

  • Waking Dream = Anchors fully rebolted with Titanium
  • Damai Sentosa = Anchors fully rebolted with Titanium
  • Polish Princess = Anchors fully rebolted with Titanium until end of Pitch 5

**********************************

During our repeat of Waking Dream, we started to replace all the corroded anchors with Titanium bolts. You can read more on the bolt status for Waking Dream, the material used and the rational for using Titanium.

Just an update as of July 2015. Anchors on Damai Sentosa have been fully rebolted and anchors on Polish Princess have been rebolted up to the end of Pitch 5. We used a new generation of  14mm Titanium bolts, the first to be certified.

We also used the 10mm SS 316 Twisted Leg Bolt

SS316 Twisted Leg Bolt

All our additions were glue-ins with Hilti RE-500 (which is identifiable by its red colour). Glue samples were taken regularly, and all had tangibly hardened within 24 hours.

 

These are the modifications done to Damai Sentosa and Polish Princess:

Damai Sentosa Bolting Weekend in April 2015

Updated Bolt Status on Damai Sentosa

 

 

Polish Princess Bolting Weekend in July 2015

Note that on Polish Princess, the original Kailas Bolts were still in a “good” shape and did not show any external signs of corrosion (as of July 2015). We abseiled using these bolts with a backup on the new Titanium bolts (orange tape on the route).

Updated Bolt Status on Polish Princess

 

Batu Naga update as of March 2015

The route opened by Cedar Wright and Lucho Rivera now shows a lot of corrosion. This line needs to be bolted with Titanium…

Batu Naga Bolt 2 Batu Naga Bolt 1

The Dragon’s Horns on Tioman Island, Malaysia, Part8: bolt status update as of July 2015
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4 thoughts on “The Dragon’s Horns on Tioman Island, Malaysia, Part8: bolt status update as of July 2015

  • September 26, 2015 at 11:31 am
    Permalink

    Re: Damai Sentosa re-bolt.

    Due to limited drill batteries, we were only able to add one Ti bolt per rap station from P3 on. The rap anchors are still cord connected to bolts. At least one of those bolts will be Ti.

    Future parties should consider taking cord or tape in case any part of any anchor needs replacement.

    And maybe, just maybe, a good Samaritan will come and add more Ti bolts.

    Reply
  • November 7, 2015 at 11:51 pm
    Permalink

    Nice, and thank you! The last pitch of Damai Sentosa is better like this!!

    Reply
    • November 8, 2015 at 12:17 pm
      Permalink

      Thanks Nico, glad you enjoyed it and congratulations for having established new lines on the horns. Good job guys !
      Climb safe

      Reply
  • Pingback: Climbing the Dragon Horns: an unforgettable adventure on Tioman Island – Bikes, Boats and Climbing Ropes

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