to do: write the report… => still processing…

Mersing ferry terminal: en route to Tioman


On the ferry to Tioman


Gear sorting at Genting waiting to go Mukut


The transfer to Mukut and a first view at the Horns

Gunung Kajang on Tioman Island

Gunung Kajang on Tioman Island - on the way to Mukut Dragon Horns

  Arriving at Mukut and getting ready at Simukut Hill View


At the Tanoshi Restaurant with the Dragon Horns in the clouds

David and Stephane in Simukut Hill View ready to go on the trail


 The Infamous Walk in

  • The Trail
  • The water point
  • The thunderstorm

Day 1: to the CatWalk

  • Pitch 1
  • Pitch 2: to the catwalk
  • At the the catwalk

Stephane replacing anchors on Waking Dream

Night 1 at the cat walk

Ropes and Anchors on the Catwalk Waking Dream Tioman

Day2: to Garden Terrace

Stephane following and cleaning on Pitch 3 to the Alcove Waking Dream Tioman

  • Climbing Pitch 7

  • Bolting anchors on pitch 8

Night 2 at Garden Terrace

Day 3 and Day 4: The top out and the epic abseil

  • Jummaring back to anchor8
  • Arriving at the top
  • The Top out !
  • Beginning the nightmarish abseil

Rope cut while abseiling to Garden Terrace Waking Dream Tioman


  • Finally ending: victory !

Celebrating our successful ascent of Waking Dream at 7am with beers

Going back to Singapore

Last view of the horns while getting back to Genting on Tioman

The Dragon’s Horns on Tioman Island, Malaysia, Part3: Trip Report, Waking Dream V 5.9 A2
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3 thoughts on “The Dragon’s Horns on Tioman Island, Malaysia, Part3: Trip Report, Waking Dream V 5.9 A2

  • April 28, 2015 at 4:38 pm

    Thank you so much for writing all this information and replacing the bolts! My partner and I are going down to Tioman in July for a bit of work, and will have 2 weeks off in between. Any thoughts on July being too hot for climbing? We’re planning on climbing Waking Dream and were wondering if you had anything to add about the “scary hooking” on pitch four, as well as which lost arrows, knife blades, and hooks you guys used. I’ll be traveling abroad for quite some time afterwards and am trying to manage my pack weight. Again thank you so much for the hard work you guys put in. So rad!


    • April 28, 2015 at 5:10 pm

      Hi Lee ! Thanks for stopping by. It is hot all the time in this part of the world although 1) The real problem is humidity… If you’re not use to it, it is a killer 2) the heat eases a lot once you are on the wall, I was actually shivering on garden terrace during the night and the early morning ! The less enjoyable part still remains the access to the route in the Jungle. Here are some information on the weather. July should be “fair” in term of rain, just expect storms at least once a day for 2-3h. Regarding hooks and other funky stuffs: it won’t add much weight 😉 We only keep with us one Cliffhanger, one Grapplin, one Talon, one Cam hook. As for pitons, we use one lost arrow (short ?). David climbed pitch 4, so he will be more able to tell you what he used there. We used them on the second (beginning), third (just before the alcove) and fourth pitch (crux). Everywhere else is fine. If my memory serves me well, we had a discussion once where the conclusion was having some copper head will have make pitch four bomber.


  • May 4, 2015 at 7:40 pm

    Ditto what Steph said about the weather. Humidity exacerbates the load humping – bring thin shirts, and lots of electrolytes.

    July should be dry, but thunderstorms are hard to predict in this part of the world. South face is in the shade; sea breeze cools things once you’re above the canopy.

    Check with Tam about accommodation availability – I hear there might be some big groups coming through.

    P2 took a short LA, can’t remember details. P3 took a blade just before the Alcove – though you can probably free past there at 5.9. P5 crux was massively retrobolted by the 2ndA’s. And P4 doesn’t take anything – just a flaring, shallow seam that spat out everything except creative RP placements. I think a WC zero #2 would be sweet here. I believe there’s a gear list on one of these pages … C4#4 used on a number of pitches. Double up on purple C4.

    Keep us updated!


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