After Yosemite last year, I felt the need to take a break from rock climbing. Training for big walls has been an exhaustive process and I reached a point where it has become too obsessive. I recently turned myself to paragliding and headed to New Zealand
Where Angels Fear To Tread (WAFTT) is one of the most classic route in Mt Buffalo. We went there in may 2013 for a a short weekend and were lucky enough to experience the most amazing weather possible. Ozymandias would be next…
We did not failed, our success has just been postponed
Damai Sentosa was was established in April 2013 by Stephanie Bodet, Yong Liu, Arnaud Petit, David Kashlikowski and Tam Khairudin Haja. We were back on the beautiful island of Tioman and repeated the route on the 13th of July 2014
During Easter 2014, Dave and I finally jumped on one of our long term projects: Ozymandias Direct, Mont Buffalo Australia. Graded M4/A2, this 280m climb is the most famous aid line in Australia and offer a spectacular scenery over the gorge. For our first real attempt, we spent three days and two nights on the wall. What a blast !
During the course of our expedition, we made a lot of researches on Tioman and the Dragon’s horns. We thought it would be useful for future parties to share our links and resources.
Waking Dream has been a long journey and it was a worth reward to top out on Malaysia Day. We climbed the route spread over 3 weekends with the objective to re-bolt the line, re-stating it as good as possible to the condition it was after the first ascent.
Waking Dream is the first historical route on the Dragon’s horns. Scotty Nelson and Nick Tomlin opted for the most obvious and pure line on the face. Since then, the Horns have seen international climbers opened more adventure routes.
There is not a lot of places in South East Asia where you jump on a big wall. Tioman is a unique destination for adventure climbing. Find here the basic information on how to access Tioman, get aournd the island and look for accommodation / food.
Bukit Takun is a beautiful limestone cliff sitting on a granite base. It is just a few minutes away from Kuala Lumpur. The site is surrounded by a dense jungle and provides the best multi-pitch experience in the Klang valley. We wanted to setup there an accessible adventurous route. A few months of hard work and “Get out of the kitchen” was born. A nice 6b+ 200m route…