During Easter 2014, Dave and I finally jumped on one of our long term projects: Ozymandias Direct, Mont Buffalo Australia. Graded M4/A2, this 280m climb is the most famous aid line in Australia and offer a spectacular scenery over the gorge. For our first real attempt, we spent three days and two nights on the wall. What a blast !
During the course of our expedition, we made a lot of researches on Tioman and the Dragon’s horns. We thought it would be useful for future parties to share our links and resources.
Waking dream on Bukit Nenek Semekut, Pulau Tioman, has at least four generations of bolts. One of our expedition aims was to make the route safe not only for ourselves, but also of future ascentionists.
Waking Dream has been a long journey and it was a worth reward to top out on Malaysia Day. We climbed the route spread over 3 weekends with the objective to re-bolt the line, re-stating it as good as possible to the condition it was after the first ascent.
Waking Dream is the first historical route on the Dragon’s horns. Scotty Nelson and Nick Tomlin opted for the most obvious and pure line on the face. Since then, the Horns have seen international climbers opened more adventure routes.
There is not a lot of places in South East Asia where you jump on a big wall. Tioman is a unique destination for adventure climbing. Find here the basic information on how to access Tioman, get aournd the island and look for accommodation / food.
Bukit Takun is a beautiful limestone cliff sitting on a granite base. It is just a few minutes away from Kuala Lumpur. The site is surrounded by a dense jungle and provides the best multi-pitch experience in the Klang valley. We wanted to setup there an accessible adventurous route. A few months of hard work and “Get out of the kitchen” was born. A nice 6b+ 200m route…
David still has to write this part ! Come on mate !!!!!!!!!!!